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YouTubeWisdom Stories
Respect THE OCEAN’S Power
Fluid Dynamics, Coastal Morphology, Spinal Trauma, Hydrostatic Force. A "shore break" occurs when deep-water swells encounter a sudden, steep change in seabed bathymetry—usually a shallow sandbar or a steeply sloped beach—preventing the wave from "peeling" and causing it to collapse vertically. Unlike waves that break further out (spilling ...
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